Chynara is a new hybrid of cosmetologist: part influencer and part glow-up chameleon. Her Instagram feed (@chykapuka) is packed full of gorgeous faces – many of them recognisable – with fluffy, brushed brows and doe-like eyes. Some of our favourite looks include the inner wing liner, which is so iconic it even has its own hashtag, #wingitlikechynara. Then there’s the metallic, almost chrome silver eyeshadow smattered all over the eyelid. Not to mention, her signature editorial look can be seen across all skin tones, which makes for relatable and inspiring viewing. The Haute Heel team sits down with makeup artist Chynara Kojoeva for all the tips on how to make the most of our eyes and brows while wearing a mask.
Let’s start from the beginning, how did you become makeup artist?
10 years, I was studying Business and needed a part time job. I walked into Selfridges and got an interview on the spot and started working for Bobbi Brown the next day. Once I was working there, I realised I loved it.
What kind of make up look gets you excited about your job?
It depends because natural makeup to me may be full on for you. It’s so important to know the person or brand I’m doing the makeup for. It’s irrelevant what I want. If I had to choose, I’d say a clean look. I don’t like ‘Instagram makeup’, it’s changing the person’s look and I like to keep the makeup looking like the person but a better version.
And what’s your go-to tip for enhancing?
Use lighter textures, for example with foundation. Even if you have problematic skin, you can use light foundation and have heavy concealer to cover up the specific areas so you can see real skin underneath.
Can you recommend anything to cover up mask related break outs?
I love NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer (£24), I use it for most skin types, especially if you have acne. This stays and it’s not too heavy. You want to stay away from cream-based concealers [despite the product’s name], you want to use a water-based one. Otherwise it will slide off when the sun hits you. It’s important to set it with powder, use a small brush to pat on the spots. I like Givenchy Prisme Libre 4 in 1 Harmony (approx £27.95).
How can we prevent makeup transfer?
Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer Pore Minimizing (£28) never gives any problems with transfer. The key thing is to not use an oil as skincare to prep the skin. Whatever foundation you use on top is going to slide off onto the fabric. I don’t think you need a setting spray. I prefer hydrating sprays that you can use throughout the day. Natura Bisse have the best Vitamin C spray (£42), the smell and everything is so nice. If your skin feels tired it gives you that little bit of moisture.
When it comes to makeup for masks, what’s your advice to highlight eyes and brows?
It’s super important to understand the eye shape. For your eyes that are hooded, I wanted to open it up. I wanted to keep it light, no brown or black eyeliner because that will make your eyes smaller. I used mint but it could’ve been lilac or even a pearly pink. By adding individual lashes, it opens them up too. Tom Ford Eye Defining Pen (£46) is good for [hooded lids], I use it for the red carpet because you want the eyeliner to last. For Lolita (the model in our hero image), you can experiment a bit more because hers are round. The inner wing extends the eye, it’s not just the winged liner – we see that everywhere. The eyeliner I used is Maybelline Lasting Drama Gel Eyeliner (£8.99), I love the texture. Brows are filled in with Benefit Brow Zings Brow Shaping Kit (£23.75) using a flat angle brush to add upward strokes. I comb it [through] with West Barn Co Soap Brows (£12) but you can use any.
What about a lip product that won’t transfer?
Anything glossy won’t work. If you want colour, go for a lip stain. NYX Professional Makeup Powder Puff Lippie Liquid Lipstick (£8) which is amazing, you need a tiny amount. It’s a sponge [applicator] that creates a bitten lip effect. The texture is powdery and it’s not going to give you moisture but you’re just staining it and not adding texture. Apply once, pat it [with a tissue] then reapply.
Masks from my sustainable accessory brand, Fleurose London.